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After last years
Guestpost about Paklenica, we were very certain that we had to visit this beautiful place by our self's one day.
Why we decided to make our trip to Paklenica and not to Rovinj?
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a) As we tried to find a nice comfy hotel or apartment in our price range, we got stuck very soon. Everything in the close range to the climbing area was quite expensive or fully booked, all the other stuff was to fare away and we didn't had the possibility to take a bike with us as Alex did last year with his school.
b) The climbing spot in Rovinj is quite nice, not to hard but there are also not that many routes. All the opposite in Paklenica u have endless routes in all grades, you can go bouldering, sport climbing or make some awesome multi-pitch routes.
c) In the summer month u can only climb in the morning in Rovinj, in Paklenica u have the possibility to switch the sector and climb in the shadow.
d) Aditionally we totally wanted to try the traditional Dalmatia cuisine and enjoy life a little bit of the mainstream.
<- [In the left picture u can see a absolute beautiful line called "Crni Gad 6b", isnt she stunning with the cool Sinter at the bottom, around 13 feet overhang. Quite athletic at the beginning, followed by a good rest position, some really technical moves and a slab at the end. ] |
The National-park Paklenica lies directly in the village of Starigrad, only a few miles away from Zadar. That makes the journey really easy, from Graz u have to drive around 268 miles, it's best if u take the inland highway and u always follow the sign that points u to Zadar. You have to take the exit 15-Maslenica. The whole drive will take u around 4 hours until u arrive at your destination.
Be careful with GoogleMaps it does not always find the right Starigrad or Paklenica, here the
Link, if u try to find a place to stay
GoogleMaps will show u only one-tenth of the real possibilities. On this Homepage you will find a lot more and u can also book ur Hotelroom, Appartment,
accommodation Starigrad, a friend used this site 2 times already as u can read
here and everything worked out quite well. U all know our risky behavior so we started our trip without booking or a real plan where to stay.
Thats quite why we had to sleep the last night in a different place. But it was really not that big of a deal our host Ante arranged a room at his aunts place only 15m away.
We stayed at
Pansion Michael for only 25€ per person and day, with a nice breakfast and the perfect view only a few meters away from the ocean. U can also get half-board for 36€. The whole family is super nice and speaks German perfectly. If u stay there u can also eat A la carte, they don't have a menu, but the most time u will get see bass, sea bream, Calamari from the grill or fried, Ćevapčići, Ražnjići, Pljeskavica, plate with grilled meat and fries.
The fish platter is huge u always get 2 fishes plus the side dishes of the day (mashed potatoes with chard or cabbage, grilled eggplant, fried zucchini...). Everything was just delicious.
For breakfast you will get a view slices of sausage, ham and cheese. And also some honey, jelly, hazelnut cream, cream cheese, spread cheese, meat paste, butter and the local white bread.
Two times we ate at the
Restaurant Dinko, its directly located, at the cross-way when u drive from the main road to the National park. It seams like the real deal a lot of locals eat their u will meet all the climbers. Over all a great location to meet, get information or find a climbing partner. And they maybe have the best coffee in town. In the picture above u can see how the owner himself fillet's our fishes. #awesome
Größere Kartenansicht |
If u need any groceries u will find a lot small supermarkets and also some bakeries.
But the biggest, best and the supermarket with the longest opening times u will find here on the right sight hidden beside the gas station. Both is on the main road only 100m bevor u turn on the small side road to the National park.
U will also find a pharmacy behind the gas station, I hope u wont need it!
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I almost forgot u are here because u want to see some climbing action ;)
We bought a 3 day ticket, it costs 100 Kuna and is valid for 30 days, the prize list can be found
here. Everytime u want to enter the National park u have to show the ticket to the park ranger and he will stamp it. If u here for sportclimbing u follow the road to the end, the most time there are 2 Rangers showing u your parking spot. Under 3 minutes and u will find the first routes. The only problem in the main season there are "a lot" of people.
After we started our day already at 7 o'clock with breakfast, we managed to start climbing around 8, so we where nearly alone. Around 10 all the tourists started travaling threw the valley, watching the climbers with big eyes, taking pictures and asking questions. Not quite what u expact from a climbing day, but it was ok, we just tried to keep focusing and doing our thing no matter what.
Around 11 the sun reached the main sector and all the climbers packed their gear and moved in the shadow on the opposite wall. The only problem there where a lot of nasty mosquitoes. One day we stayed a little bit longer and the scene was quite strange, there where so many people side by side, climbing above each other. U can check it for ur self the two pictures below prove my opinion I guess. #HumanFail
We tried the following routes more or less successfully. The grading is really strange and very inconsistent, also the Climbing Guide Book is not up to date anymore. And while they tried to do a quite good job by naming the routes and butting up some direction signs, we still couldn't find 2 Sectors (A/20, A/8 - Olimp). And couldn't find some routes in the book either.
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Route name
|
Grade
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Our Grade
|
Sector
|
Opinion
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| Day 1 | | | | |
| Nasti put | 4c | | A/16 - Karenin | A Grade I can really enjoy but the bolts are very far, great hand holds |
| Edi | 5a | | A/16 - Karenin | |
| Irenes smile | 6b | | A/16 - Karenin | |
| Kadi si? | 5c | | A/16 - Karenin | |
| Day 2 | | | | |
| Zava | 4b | | A/15 - Zava | |
| Cuja ti si bog! | 5c+ | | A/15 - Zava | |
| ??? | ? | 6b | A/15 - Zava ? | The Route is two routes on the right of Achtung Steinschlag, no Name not in the guide book, very nice |
| Flash back | 6c+ | | A/14 - Colibri | Really hard line, we hadn't enough power left, so we decided to leave a cheap carabiner behind |
| Day 3 | | | | |
| Wiener Würstchen | 5a | | A/3 - Auhe | Stay right at the overhang |
| Auhe | 5b | | A/3 - Auhe | Hard 5b, but there are hand holds in the overhang |
| Crni gad | 6b | 6c+ | A/6 - Popaj | (Souvenir shop) the most beautiful line we have ever seen,really hard 6b we would guess 6c+ at least |
| Inox(matio | 6a+ | | A/6 - Popaj | Right variation from Crni gad, much easier |
| Fleissige Villi | 6a | | A/15 - Zava | Only if u have a death wish, u should start on the left and follow the crack to the right |
| Bloody Mary | 6b | | A/16 - Karenin | Nice line, hard to find some food holds on the traverse to the left. Much much easier than Crni gad 6b. |
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Calculation
| Vignette Slovenia | 15 | = 149 / 4 Person = 37,25 |
| 2x road charge Zagreb | 12 |
| 2x road charge Starigad | 32 |
| Gasoline ~900km | 90 |
| Snacks+Water | 15 | = 254 |
| 5x Meal+Drinks | 100 |
| 5x Hotel room | 125 |
| 3 Day Ticket | 14 |
Overall we spend around per person =
294€
One afternoon we decided to go snorkelling in a bay a view miles away. We found a really lonely bay, on the first side a beautiful place to be. But after our first steps into the water we didnt wonder no more. The water was freezing, around us where hundreds of sea urchin's and sea cucumber's. Nice Try at least!
Here u can find a few more links:
BERGSTEIGEN
Foxality.org
Gastpost 2012
Unterkünfte
Paklenica 2010 by cabl
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